Welsh Roadside Ice Climbing

I went up the Llanberis pass this morning with Jon for some roadside ice climbing. He is still quite ill, and I need to go and do my Christmas shopping today so we didn't have long. So a 5 min drive, a 2 minute approach and a short route sounded perfect. We wanted to do Crown of Thorns, and it was in. Perfect. Last time I went up there in the dark to do it after work with Rhys, we just found lumps of ice on the slopes under it, which it turned out were the route. Today though, it was there. And looked pretty good. Looked easy really, straight forward grade 4 ice.

I did the leading as Jon wasn't feeling up to it. To describe the route in one word, I think I would have to use 'Horrorfest'. There was a good runner on it at least. And a few bits of attached ice to be fair. But in the main, gear was very poor screws, or an ancient rusty peg, and the ice was either very thin, and semi-detached, or fat looking, but a crust over snow over slush. I pulled down so much of this crust on my way up. Totally gripped. 

Overall though I did enjoy it. Not the best route I have ever done by a long shot. But good to have done it, and the novelty of roadside ice climbing in Wales is great. Quite funny how every passing car slowed down and we had a load of people taking photos too. It would be good to get hold of some of them. I would grade it at V 4. It's really quite serious, but its not technically that hard if your happy to pull on untrustworthy ice. Early tomorrow would be the time to do it, I have cleared the crap off and the slush under the crust will probably be well frozen tomorrow now its not insulated. 

I want to go and do the Appendix now. Just had a text saying its great and its the time to do it! But I have to go Christmas shopping now so it will have to wait until boxing day. Please don't thaw!!!!