White goods

Having been 15 degrees on top of Snowdon today according to the Summit weather station (I can't actually believe it has been that warm though), and there not being any ice or routes in condition anywhere, Jim and I headed over to the White Goods dry tooling crag in Clwyd somewhere for some dry tooling action. 

Its a great place, well worth checking out if you have never been there. but nothing is easy. It really tests your nerve with what you can stick to using an axe tip. There is definitely a constant fear of smashing your teeth out without warning. More info on White Goods can be found at whitegood.blogspot.com. 

Jim on one of the many long moves on Jazz

We started in the 'Kitchen garden' area. Warming up on the M5, and doing the M7 immediately right. Both good routes and the easiest 2 lines there I think. Though there are 2 new lines left of here that I don't know anything about yet. The only problem with this area is the mud! So much of it today. Your boots accumulate so much of it you can scarcely get your crampons on! 

Jim reaching the slabby top of Jazz

After that we went to the main area as Jim wanted to have a crack at Jazz. Which I have 'done' before. But apparently its the best route there. I have never dogged so much in my life as when I 'did' Jazz. I definitely need to do it properly one day. Jim did pretty well on the on-sight attempt. I then top roped it, and couldn't make the top miserably. I was pumped to the point of having to stop after pretty much each move. And then Jim lead it again, clean! A fine effort! Some impressive cutting loose shows just how good a tiny flat hook can be! 

My arms hurt now, in a good way. I just want it to get cold again though to do some proper mixed climbing!! 

A sad day for wintersports

It must have rained all night here in Llanberis. Only the snow piled up from clearing parking spaces remains. It's shocking how much has gone overnight. Freezing levels today have been really high, and winds have been strong. The Cloggy weather station has recorded gusts at 117mph! With average wind speeds of 86mph. So its not really been a good day to get out. So I didn't, and managed to sleep in until 11. I think I'm still ill because I could never normally sleep that late.

On the plus side. It does look like this thaw is only a blip in the long freeze of this winter, and things should get back to normal at the end of the week. Fingers crossed.

Cwm Idwal has put on weight over Christmas!

I headed up into Cwm Idwal today to see if all this I've heard about the ice there being amazing is true. And it was, everything there is super fat, including myself. I went up with my brother Ollie, he has not done a great deal of winter climbing, so we planed to do The Screen or South Gully or one of the classic 4's up there. They were all rammed full of people though so they were off the menu. And so much spindrift was coming down the South Gully area that we didn't fancy trying Grecian 2000 either, which was a potential. The Pipes looked great! And we were so close to going and getting on it, but Ollie psyched me out and we bailed. In he end we ended up on the Devils Drainpipe after about an hour of procrastination. It was nearly 2pm by this point!

The Sting, fat as ever! 

We saw Jon and Jim up there. They had been to the back of the kitchen, and started up it. But had to retreat just after leaving the ground as they were accumulating about an inch of snow a minute, and you couldn't look upwards because of it. Sounds horrific. So they did the curtain instead, which looked pretty good! There were at one point 9 climbers on the Appendix I think! And people on every other route up there.

The Drainpipe, IV/V 5 was great. We did it in one long pitch. Starting on steep ice, then into a series of narrow iced grooves, much steeper then I thought they were going to be. Good continuous climbing though.

The grim weather

Ollie on reaching the top said 'Your a prick, for making me come ice climbing, its like torture!'. It cracked me up. He had borderline hot aches all the way up the route it seems. But they didn't quite go over the edge, make him cry and then warm up again, he was just stuck with the pain. He's not going to winter climb with me again apparently. We'll see about that! 

By the time we had done that it was half 3 and the weather was so grim we didn't fancy another route. The combination of spindrift and strong gusts felt like a sandblaster to the face. And me not having checked the weather before setting out had not prepared for it, with the 'oh its only Cwm Idwal, if it gets grim we can easily retreat' attitude didn't bring a buff, goggles or much clothing. So I certainly had a miserable time of it. Getting blown over and falling into holes from other peoples feet that were covered by the spindrift.

The routes up there are in awesome nick at the moment! I think I'm going to head back there tomorrow with Jon, the forecast sucks, but I'll be better prepared!

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas everyone. I hope your all having a top day. I have had a very lazy day, been working on my insulation for the coming cold months.

I got a couple of great Christmas gifts, a copy of Cold Climbs, a Black Diamond Express ice screw, a Petzl clipper, and a donation towards my new axes from my folks! So thank you very much guys!

The new axes I bought were the Black Diamond Fusion 2 axes earlier this month. I had said to myself I was going to get a pair of Nomics since last year, after hearing people claim that they increase your ability by a grade just by using them, and my old DMM Fly axes were getting seriously worn and did my head in.

I had modified the Fly's to be used leash-less by drilling a hole through the bottom and fitting a quark grip-rest on the bottom. It did make a huge difference, much better then using conventional leashes, but it still had its drawbacks. Firstly, if the pick ever went deeper then expected with a hard swing, your fingers got mashed against the ice, very painful. And secondly, if the above happened, the grip-rest would pivot on impact, closing on your little finger. This would often actually trap it and you would need the other hand to free it. Not ideal at all. Plus my Fly's picks were about 4-5 teeth shorter then they should have been. So gone are the days of having to pull back the grip-rest after each swing, and of nursing mashed hands at the end of each day.

I did want the Nomics, they're the tools that everyone talks about, the new ones solved the issues of the old ones by adding a hammer or adze if you wanted it, and by having some sort of spike on the bottom. I didn't really realise there was any competition to it, so Nomic it was going to be. So I tried ordering a pair, and it turned out there aren't any! Lyon do not have any in stock, and wont until mid Jan or later. And it seemed no shops had them either, even trying on-line. So that was that. I was pretty gutted.

Out climbing with Jim from V12 one day, we got talking about axes, and Jim suggested a load of alternatives to the Nomics. Quarks, Vipers, Fusions, Reactors... All really good axes, but slightly different and aimed at slightly different uses. Quarks and Vipers amazing all round axes, for Welsh winter, and even Alpine stuff. With hammer and adze, quite light weight and not overly technically shaped, so still very usable on easier angled stuff and for plunging the shaft. The reactor, a strange beast, but highly rated. A bit like a Fly, but with a bucket handle. Not as aggressive as the Quark or Viper in shaft shape, but with a bucket handle. A good idea really, the Fly shape is not bad, but the bucket handle will stop you smashing your knuckles, provides loads more support, and keeps your hands off the ice keeping them warmer. They are cheap too. Well worth considering. I know a few people that use them and think they're great.

Last on the list the Fusion 2. Pretty much exactly the same as the Nomic in its shape and use. There are a number of differences though that I have read about and found looking at the different tools:

• Weight, the Fusions are heavier then the Nomics, even when fitted with the weights, hammer and adze
• Grip adjustment, Fusions adjust by changing the handle spacers, maintaining the handle shape, the Nomic adjusts by angling the grip-rest, which leads to less support for larger hands. 
• Grip, both are comfy, the Fusion's grip extends to the upper grip, whereas the Nomic just has tape. For daggering the hydro-formed shape of the fusion givers better grip then the Nomic. 
• The head, Fusion has micro hammer on each axe. Usable, but not the best hammer in the world. The Nomic as standard has nothing, but you can add a hammer, which is better then the fusions, or you also have the option of adding an adze. 
• The picks, although there is not a great deal in it, the Fusion picks are more expensive, though I cant comment on how the picks actually perform, some people tell my BD picks are best, others say BD picks are prone to breaking and need replacing more often. I doubt there is much in it. 
• Swing, I only tried this in air, the Fusion swing is a little heavier as they are more top heavy. 
• Spike, the Fusion has quite a decent spike, that you can clip directly into. The Nomic has a sort of spike, but not great at all. Plunging is still hard because of the aggressive angle with both, holding the top of the shaft seems to work best. 

I think that sums up the basics. I'm sure there are other little details that I haven't mentioned, but those were my main observations. 

So based on the fact that I couldn't get Nomics for at least a month, and having had a good look at the Fusions, I decided that I would rather have the Fusions. And went and bought a pair first thing the next day. I'm glad I did too, now Petzl have recalled the Nomics as the grip-rest is prone to breaking, so I wouldn't be able to get them at all until October now I've heard. Plus these Fusions are amazing!

The Devils Kitchen

The first time I used them, the swing was very weird in comparison to the Fly's. It took a while to learn how to get them getting one hit wonders every time. But that day I lead a grade 5 ice pitch which I had never done before. The extra clearance, the better hand support and picks that stick solid with a single swing made so much difference. I was made up.

It might have also helped that I had changed my crampons to having a mono-point for the first time. I use Black Diamond Cyborgs, which I have not had long. Mono-points are amazing! No more awkward angling on the foot before kicking in, and much more accurate on mixed ground. And the front points on these actually project from my toe a decent distance, so I get good purchase, the old ones were really short and hardly penetrated, and were horizontally aligned, vertical seems much better.

So new tools and crampons, and I have stepped it up a grade. I hope that I'm actually getting better at climbing, but I do think they make a big difference. And I'm super psyched for it now, even more then before. I might have a go at the Devils Appendix tomorrow if its still in. That would make my year!

Bring it on!

Welsh Roadside Ice Climbing

I went up the Llanberis pass this morning with Jon for some roadside ice climbing. He is still quite ill, and I need to go and do my Christmas shopping today so we didn't have long. So a 5 min drive, a 2 minute approach and a short route sounded perfect. We wanted to do Crown of Thorns, and it was in. Perfect. Last time I went up there in the dark to do it after work with Rhys, we just found lumps of ice on the slopes under it, which it turned out were the route. Today though, it was there. And looked pretty good. Looked easy really, straight forward grade 4 ice.

I did the leading as Jon wasn't feeling up to it. To describe the route in one word, I think I would have to use 'Horrorfest'. There was a good runner on it at least. And a few bits of attached ice to be fair. But in the main, gear was very poor screws, or an ancient rusty peg, and the ice was either very thin, and semi-detached, or fat looking, but a crust over snow over slush. I pulled down so much of this crust on my way up. Totally gripped. 

Overall though I did enjoy it. Not the best route I have ever done by a long shot. But good to have done it, and the novelty of roadside ice climbing in Wales is great. Quite funny how every passing car slowed down and we had a load of people taking photos too. It would be good to get hold of some of them. I would grade it at V 4. It's really quite serious, but its not technically that hard if your happy to pull on untrustworthy ice. Early tomorrow would be the time to do it, I have cleared the crap off and the slush under the crust will probably be well frozen tomorrow now its not insulated. 

I want to go and do the Appendix now. Just had a text saying its great and its the time to do it! But I have to go Christmas shopping now so it will have to wait until boxing day. Please don't thaw!!!! 

Not quite yesterday...

I had another days snowboarding today. Wasn't quite up to the same standards as yesterday though.

Originally a gang of us were going to check out what Mynydd Mawr has to offer in terms of snow, but due to plague, broken boilers and dogs needing lunch (yes, lunch......), Nikki, James, Jon and myself had to settle for a north Wales alpine start, and left the house at quarter to 1. With not much light left we went up to the Marchlyn reservoir road. The wind seemed to have stripped a lot of the snow away from this hillside though which was quite disappointing, but we quested on anyway.

Jon was unsure if he was going to die trekking up from plague. Sadly, he made it. It wasn't too bad trekking up, well in comparison to yesterday nothing ever could be mind you. We only went up the road and then up to the little Col beneath Carnedd y Filiast. Little else seemed much cop for descending.

The run down was ok. Unfortunately the light was very flat on the best snow down from the col. On the road the snow was ok but its not very steep so was quite slow. Especially with all the gauges out the board from the past few days. All in all definitely worth while, but nothing on yesterday.

Meanwhile, sounds like climbing is good around here. I hadn't really considered it thinking it would be horrific with a load of snow about but I hear Idwal is in brilliant nik. I have a few ideas of some routes I hope to be in for the next few days. I still have my hopes up that I was the last person on a certain route last year, where my bulldog hopefully remains, so I want to go and get that bugger back soon! Before it gets pikeyed by someone.

I need ot go shopping tomorrow. I cant believe it. The weather will be good again too. Maybe get a roadside ice route done though, I hope.

Death by wading...

I cant believe how much snow there is here in North Wales at the moment!Over the past 3 days I've picked up my brother from Liverpool airport and gone down to Devon, been in Devon a few days and got back home yesterday afternoon. Not the most exciting last few days but it had to be done and also it was 3 days of forced rest and I think I have cleared this death cold. Or at least over the worst of it now.

The roads were fine driving back into Wales, a big lorry had rammed up the bank of the A55 though and didn't look too healthy. Other then that fine. There was as much snow around as when we left, and according to my brother who has been in Switzerland the past few months, we have more snow then they do!

It snowed more lest night too, which was apparent from people coming over in the evening, plastered in snow. Another 4 inches last night perhaps. Lots anyway, as I was to find out today.

I had planned on going out with Jon, Rory and Bryn. But Jon was practically on his deathbed today so he had to leave it. The rest of us went though. From the Marchlyn reservoir road, up Elidir, into Cwm Dudodyn, up Foel Goch and back down into the Cwm and down to Nant Peris to finish. The other guys on their softies skis skinned their way up, as I plodded in the not too deep snow up Elidir. From there the descent was awesome, on superb snow drawing smooth snaking lines down into the Cwm on completely un-tracked snow. Bliss. Or was it?

From the Cwm to the top of Foel Goch quite possibly was the most physically difficult thing I have ever done. I spent that hour and a half on the edge of being able to breathe, sinking to at least my knees with every step. Making 10m attempts between wishing I was dead. But the slope we were going to descend looked so good, it was going to be worth it. Or at least I kept telling myself that.

We got to the top, some cloud had appeared from nowhere, but it broke at the perfect time to get a clear run down. We carved it up, flying down, trying to find a balance between number of turns and speed. You don't want to go too fast, though it would be brilliant, but it would feel like less value for all the damn hard work getting up. And you don't want to go too slowly turning loads as it would be dull. I think we got it right though. All finished with massive grins on our faces.

These grins soon disappeared with the reality of a 1.5km walk out, through waist deep snow. Bryn and Rory donned the skinns and made their way. I found it easier following wind scoured edges of gullies up, and then getting on the board and traversing along a bit.

We finally made it down to Nant. All totally boxed, but satisfied. What a great day out. Who needs the alps? Not us at the moment. Who needs snow shoes? Me

Forget climbing, its all about Skiing and Boarding now!

So much snow about. It literally doubled in depth over Friday night. I've never seen so much snow in Llanberis. So yesterday a few of us met up and fancied going snowboarding and skiing. We went for a North Wales alpine start, and met in V12 for about half 10, then didnt actually set on our way until gone midday! It was great though, no driving involved, boards and skis on our back, and up we marched past the youth hostel and directly up Moel Eilio.

It was hard work. Wading through all the snow, and I have no idea how long it took, probably around 2 hours I would guess. We met 3 or 4 other skiers and boarders up there. Seems it was the place to be. It is perfect for it though, great angle down the main path, or loads of places to go steeper if needed, and the surface under the snow is soft grass, so little risk of gauging your board to bits.

When we got to the top, typically the weather came in and we were right in the cloud. But this cleared about about half an hour thank God. Once that cleared and we really got into it it was just awesome! Runs down were on par with the best days off piste I have had in the Alps. Totally stunning. The slog back up was not so awesome, and as a result I think my man flu has progressed into pneumonia or something as my chest is not in a good way at all today. 

Jim had a go at snowboarding for the first time, some good comedy falls as to be expected but I think he's a bit of a natural. Even linking turns after about only 400m of snowboarding! Took me a week! 

The descent down from the top was brilliant, right to the High Street in Llanberis, only had to walk about 30 meters to get home. For now, Llanberis is little Chamonix. Stick a few lifts up on the mountains and re-name Llanberis: Llanberis Snowdon like its big brother Chamonix Mont Blanc.

I would be going out again today if I could breathe, there is a crowd heading out. I fancied doing Banana Gulley with Jon (pictured above) if we could. But instead I'm now going to drive to Devon.... It's good I guess, might clear this damn plague with 2 forced rest days.

So much fresh snow!!

And I'm stuck in Llanberis! There are worse places to be snowed in.

Anyway this is the first entry to my blog. I'm rather unsure about starting a blog, but some friends have suggested I do, as they read blogs of people who do considerably less stuff out in the mountains then I do who get to test gear and write reviews and the like. So why not give it a go? I like to think I do my best at getting out and doing stuff as much as I can, and I know loads of people around here who do the same and share their stories and experiences, and isn't having a blog the done thing of the 21st century? I guess you only have to read it if you want to and are interested. I'll try to keep it interesting.

There is 6 inches or more snow accumulated on everything on the high street! Roads are death at the moment from what I've heard. I've not so much as left the house today, I'm ill with man flu, as are most people I know at the moment... I hope we don't all die before climbing conditions become amazing.

For now though, climbing conditions sound rather rubbish. A friend who had work cancelled tried to get up towards Crib Goch from the village today, though they got to Cromlech ok with snow chains on, it took them 2 hours to walk in, and they didn't even get to the upper cwm before giving up. Thigh deep soft snow in places, the stuff of nightmares unless your snowboarding down it. So they sacked that off and came back down.
They did say though that the ice is coming back in fast! Face route is forming, and potentially do-able tomorrow, and Sergeants gulley forming nicely too. For the mixed climbers amongst us all the old snow has melted nicely wetting the turf, and over the past 2 cold days has frozen up well so we wont have the problem of the snow insulating it again and it not freezing properly! Good stuff.

Tomorrow though...? I don't think its going to be up to much, not for me at least unless I can shift this damn cold. I think short approaches are going to be the best bet tomorrow, minimise the wading. Or follow people. That would be wise. I wonder if all this snow has created much of an avalanche risk in some of the snow gullies? The Trinities? They will be a desperate swim up through all the snow anyway so best avoided.

Transport might be the biggest issue. They have gritted the main roads, but as it continues to snow they're not particularly clear.

Isn't that muffled silence of all street noises great though?