Jubilee Climb!!

I had a horrible early start this morning. Rhys and I decided last night that we should go and do 'Jubilee Climb' (V 6) on Cloggy today, but because the weather forecast suggested it would get warm and wet as the day went on, we thought best get out early. So we met at mine for just gone 7, and headed off. It was grim. Really windy and snowing on the way up. Fortunately dry snow so we didn't have to wear boil in the bag clothing. We got to the base of the route fairly quickly, and kitted up just before to cross the snow slopes which were a bit death. You wouldn't want to take a slide!

Me on pitch 2, this was the first taste of what was to come!

Rhys lead out rightwards on the first easy pitch, which was quite exposed. He had decided that I was going to get the 'death pitch', because he seems to always get them when we go out. So I had the 'death pitch'. It was full on! Amazing climbing, and very continuous. It's without a doubt the most physical winter route I have done, I found myself locking off reaching up with the other tool, using rubbish little footholds with the front points. It seemed no move was easier then a grade 5 move, with 4 memorable cruxes along the way. It was all there though, with mega hooks galore. When your axe just slots in and you needn't worry about it! I spent a while on that pitch, working out what to do, clearing snow off the ledges and arranging loads of gear, as its very well protected.

Nearing the top of pitch 2

Rhys came up behind me, considerably quicker then me with a big grin on his face. Thankfully he also found it hard as nails! He had the next grade 3 pitch. Hardest grade 3 I have come across. With a desperate step in the middle. I then lead up the ramp to the base of the next main difficulties.

Rhys on pitch 3 at the hard step

Rhys set off up the next grade 5 pitch. Which was quite scary at the bottom, and had 1 desperate step in it. The guide described this pitch as being 40m, but I don't know if we belayed somewhere different to usual (it says go along the ledge as far as you can), but the main chock-stone he reached at the right bend was only about 30m from the belay, so he quested on upwards, unknowingly past the belay. It describes the passing of this chock-stone as hard work, thankfully some snow had slipped down it and frozen solid, making a great little pedestal for us to stand on and cross it fairly easily.

Rhys on pitch 5 moving out left

I had the final pitch, described as 5 but its easier (but didn't include the chock-stone this time). The guide suggests that without ice you cant really do this. But there was no ice today, yet it was an amazing pitch! The gully is rammed full of large chock-stones basically, and between them all are mega hooks. So the pitch was just a matter of yarding up on these mega hooks. It was a brilliant pitch. Comically Rhys got a sling a little stuck on removal from a chock, and kicked it out with his foot, sending it flying down the pitch!

Rhys on pitch 6, the first time

Then it was done! We both thought we were being rather optimistic in choosing the route, neither of us have lead a real tech 6 before, and the weather was grim. In fact, by the time we topped out it was lashing it down with rain. We walked back totally soaked, but well chuffed too!