Scottish Weekender - Sunday

After an epic beasting yesterday, we decided it would be really nice to not have to walk too far today. So Aonach Mor sounded lovely, wit ha lift to take you most of the way up. So we got on the 8am lift, and then the chair lift up as high as climbers can go. The followed the parade of people up to the top. Neither Jon or I had been there before, and both of us were amazed by how busy it was! Loads of people. We just followed the crowds which was handy, as you couldn't see much, and lots of people there were obviously working with clients.

The pilgrimage to the summit

Kitting up with every man and his dog

So we geared up with everyone else too, and headed to the top of the crag. We were not at all psyched when we got there. Snow bollards. There were about 30 people cutting them out, a few decent ones already made, but most were being excavated. We didn't bargain for this sort of faff, it was really cold too. With not an adze between us, we had to wait for another party to finish with their bollard, and we moved in fast and got down over the cornice quickly.

Jon on 1st pitch of 'Typhoon' (IV 4)

We wanted a short-ish route, one we could do quite quickly too, with the shortest walk in possible. We narrowed it down to 2 routes, I don't remember one of the names, but the one we ended up on (as the other one was already taken) was called 'Typhoon' (IV 4).

Jon on the second pitch

I took the first pitch, I guess grade 3 climbing, but the ice wasn't great, dinner platey, and there was no gear for about 30m, so it felt very serious. I was fairly gripped on the tricky step, with a 100foot fall potential! I brought Jon up, who was still pretty worn out from the day before, plus being cold, and he didn't fancy the lead on the next pitch, which did look pretty desperate. So I did that too, and it was fairly desperate. A tight chimney, and then a steep pull through an ice bulge. Very well protected though, and a bomber belay at the top. Jon got up it much easier then I did, thankfully he found a second lease of life, and proceeded to fly up the third pitch to the top.

Jon leading the third pitch of 'Typhoon'

It was a really good route, hard for the grade, definitely the hardest route of the weekend, and I would go as far as saying my favourite route in terms of the climbing of the weekend. I am a big fan of the sort of mixed stuff, I find it more involving and interesting. Though Zero Gully and Point Five definitely win in terms of size and general amazingness. But Aonach Mor is definitely somewhere I will re-visit sometime, there is loads there. What I found very weird is that for a pretty large crag, with loads of good starred grade 3 routes on it, a route called 'Left Twin' (III 3 I think), had about 20 people in it, 4 groups at least queueing! I'm guessing there is something I don't know about that route, either that or people have no imagination or sense!!!!