Trinity Face after a quick freeze

Yesterday I had been fairly optimistic that a few routes would come into condition today with the falling freezing level. I figured that all the snow lying around in the gullies would freeze solid and be amazing. 'Good luck with that mate' was the reply I got from one friend, and someone else suggested I was stupid (only in a more polite way). So I was very pleased to prove them very wrong and had one of the best days climbing I have ever had.

I headed up with Rhys to Clogwyn y Garnedd, or Trinity Face to most. No rush at all, we set off at the leisurely time of half 9, and didn't leave the car park at Pen y Pass until 10! Still, we managed to do 5 routes, and be back at the car for half 5.

Rhys on the crux of Great Gully 1st chockstone

The PYG track was really quite busy, I guess its a bank holiday weekend, but considering the conditions there was a surprising number of people. We belted it up the path to the bottom of the crag, prodding the snow along the way to see how good the neve was, it was surprisingly good. We had hoped to do snowdrop, but that most certainly wasn't in. But Great Gully looked really good, and with the neve as it was would be fantastic. So we did that first. Soloed it, it had a few tricky steps but nothing sustained. Its a really nice route, definitely recommend it, and it brings you out right on the summit.

Great Gully

From there we dropped down Central Trinity, avoiding several people climbing it very closely together by following the turfy buttress to its left. And then went to the right (looking in) to find something good to climb. Couloir looked interesting. We soloed to the bottom of the main pitch, which didn't look too bad. The guide describes the belay here as being poor. We couldn't find anything that I would even consider poor! So I climbed up a bit and found a suspect flake to sling on the left. We were in the classic position of not kitting up in a sensible place and faffed with the ropes and rack on the steep slope. When will I ever learn? Tim Neil popped up behind us then. And joined us for the route. I lead up, quite gripped. It's very true what the book says about there being little gear. And there was a strip of water cress that hadn't frozen down the centre of the route making things quite exciting. Did it though without dying. Always a bonus. I wouldn't recommend this route at the moment, let it freeze a bit more. Follow the books advice!

Tim and Rhys on Couloir

Tim left us there and went back to Llanberis. We carried on and descended End Gulley, and cut along into Cave Gulley, which we finished up. Rhys has soloed this in the past, but he did say to me earlier in the day if he did it again he would want a rope. As we approached it, I had forgotten our earlier conversation, and suggested soloing it, and he agreed, then told me to go in front... I got to the base of the difficult bit, and it looked nails! So I got a rope out, whacked some gear in and threw the other end down to Rhys and carried on climbing. I was glad we didn't solo it! It really was hard! No footholds where you want them. It was however possibly my favourite bit of mixed climbing I have done! Really interesting moves, but pretty well protected. It was really really good! Harder then the 4 its given in the book for when there is ice there.

Rhys on the crux of Cave Gully

We then raced back down the PYG track, where crampons were essential, until we took them off, and then fell all the time! Great day out.

The conditions up there were surprisingly good overall. Old snow is now good solid neve. There was a dusting of snow last night so everything is white. And turf overall seems well frozen (except for the death watercress sections, avoid these, they are evil). It will be even better tomorrow!